from one generation to the next
Our long hot dry summer is dragging on. We’ve had weeks on end of days peaking at 35C and nights failing to drop below 22C. There is no relief in sight. While much of the east coast has experienced disastrous floods, our gardens are wilting and our stamina is flagging. I find myself watching the sky in the south west for clouds, black rain filled clouds, bringing a downpour to drench the earth, settle the dust and lift the spirits.
My palate is tired of hot weather dinners and the fridge is almost bare. With a few standard fridge and pantry basics, zucchinis that were languishing in the crisper, a frozen fillet of smoked trout and chives from the garden, I resurrected this roulade, a recipe I was constantly reinventing in the eighties. It was good to revisit this now dated dish.
The method may look lengthy, but the recipe comes together reasonably quickly.
A savoury roulade is best made a few hours before you are ready to serve, or it can be made the day before.
3 zucchinis coarsely shredded
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon snipped chives
½ tablespoon maize flour
2 tablespoons milk
½ tablespoon seeded mustard
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 fillet smoked trout deboned and flaked
1/3 cup plain flour
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons dried tomato paste
2 tablespoons snipped chives
30 g parmesan cheese, grated
4 eggs, separated
Shred the washed zucchinis, put it into a colander, toss the salt through and allow to drain while you get everything else ready.
Preheat the oven to 180C. Grease and flour a 24cm X 30cm shallow swiss roll tin and line it with baking paper.
Prepare the filling first as the zucchini needs to have cooled before you add the trout. Rinse the salted zucchini and squeeze out as much water as possible. Heat the butter in a small pan, add the chives and zucchini. Cook over a low heat until all the water has evaporated. Mix the maize flour and milk to a thin slurry and add to the zucchini. Stir continuously over a low heat until it thickens. Stir in the mustard then set aside to cool. While the sponge is baking add the mayonnaise and trout to the filling.
To make the sponge, melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the flour and cook stirring continuously for a minute. Add the milk gradually stirring continuously until all the milk is incorporated and the béchamel has thickened. Remove from the heat then add the cheese, chives and dried tomato paste. Beat in the egg yolks one at a time. Whisk the egg whites to soft peaks then fold 1/3 into the cheese sauce. Lightly fold in the remaining 2/3. Pour the sponge batter in the prepared tin and spread to the edges. Bake for approximately 20 minutes or until puffed, golden and firm to the touch in the centre. Lay a clean tea towel over a wire cooling rack, tip the sponge onto the tea towel, then working quickly, spread the filling over the sponge leaving a 4cm margin on a short edge.
Starting at the other short end, tightly roll the roulade. Use the tea towel to help manoeuvre the hot sponge.
If the sponge shows signs of cracking, mine did, roll the roulade tightly in plastic wrap to cool and the cracks will heal. Allow to cool before slicing thickly.
Cuts into 12 X 2cm thick slices